The
pictures speak more or less for
themselves. Corsica is a rough island. It's highest peaks are
around 3.000 meters. Some are covered with snow all year round.
The population is small and mostly concentrated in a few towns and
small villages, leaving the rest of the countryside for nature. The
roads are well kept, but narrow and winding. Driving an overall
distance of 50 kilometers along the westcoast will take 200 kilometers
of road. If you reach an average speed of over 30 km/h you must be
either a
local or a suicidal maniac.
If there's no road where you think there should be one, there's
probably a
good reason. Take any shortcut, and you will likely end up trapped in
brambushes, hanging like a spider on a vertical wall or balancing on
the edge of a canyon. In my opinion, leaving the beaten track is great,
but not if you'd like to get anywhere.
I've been there for a couple of years now, always on my own, always in
low season. Late may and early june are perfect: Nice weather but not
too warm, and long before the French and Italian beachcrowds start
spoiling the place.
Like I said: Rough country.
The Peaks
Yes, Corsica has mountains. For me, their sheer size is
mindboggling, whether I'm looking at them or spending a day climbing
one. Pictures could never do them justice, but that's no reason not to
show them anyway. These are taken in Haut Asco, a "skiing resort".
Well, yes, I did find the remains of a skilift, that may have operated
in some far history. On an average day in early june, you meet one or
two people during a day of hiking.
Canyoning
Photographing streams is difficult. I find it almost impossible
to make a picture that does any justice to the place. Still, I gave it
a try.
I like climbing these streams. I have good canyoning shoes and a
walking stick, but no real climbing gear. Whenever I would need that, I
just call it a day and turn back. That leaves enough kilometers of
rock-hopping, wading and short climbing challenges to keep me happy for
days.
At the parkingspots, downstream of the rivers, you might meet some
people. The first five minutes you'll walk through their shit and
toiletpaper, but walk
half an hour upstream and all traces of humans and civilisation are
gone. I wish I had places like that in the Netherlands, to leave
humanity behind me and meditate, read or think.
Sea kayaking
The mediterranian can look peaceful sometimes - but in a matter of hours it can change in quite an exhilerating ride in a kayak. Be prepared.
While the east coast is basically one long beach, the west coast is
rocky. Rocky, as in lined with towering cliffs, sometimes half a
kilometer straight up from the sea. Once more, it boggles the mind to
think of the powers that have created this place, and the time it took.
A story says it was created by the devil on an angry day. I'd say it
was created by some god on a happy day. In the roughness and
the
obvious violent powers at work, there is so much detail, so much
beauty, so much variety... If I actually believed in a god, I would
thank
him for creating this holy place, this temple.
Culture
Mostly, I prefer nature above culture during my vacations. I don't
visite the cultural sites and don't photograph them - but this little
church I couldn't resist.
It carries a sign saying that entering is dangerous ("NE PAS ENTRER -
DANGER"). I think that's good advice for
any church:
Entering religion
can
be dangerous to your health, welbeing, intelligence and ethics.
Life
I
speak just enough French to order a meal or handle my shoppings. I can
not socialize in it, so I spend my vacation in complete solitude. The
only creatures I really have contact with are dogs. Corsica is
full of them. I don't know whether the're strays or farmdogs taking a
stroll. They are hardly after food, they keep their distance until
invited. But when you've gained their trust the're great companions.
Here are some of the other inhabitants:
Trees
Although I don't like camping grounds, there is this one camping that I
visit
with pleasure, often to stay for a couple of days. It's a quiet place
with a real friendly and easygoing host, but that's not the point.
The point is the trees growing on the grounds. A kind of lifesized
bonzai-trees. Once again, I have no clue what formed them or how old
they are. They seem to belong in a fairytale: A people that was
bewitched to become trees and have stood there, yearning and grasping
for their freedom, for thousands of years...
It took me 3 years to get some decent pictures. It required the exact
right cloud cover and exact right exposure - but I'm almost satisfied.
I might get it right next year.
Corsica is overgrown with scenting herbs. A picture will not capture
their smell, so I add some pictures of more visually pleasing plants.
Rocks
A special interest of mine: Rocks. Special rocks. These remind me of
the work of sculpters Dali and Zadkine. Perhaps they found there
inspiration right here.
What I like best is: You can touch these sculptures. You can stroke
them, even climb them, marvelling at the natural forces that
created these natural pieces of fine art.
The following pictures are from earlier vacations. They were taken with a low
resolution camera. I've done what I can with the Gimp, but there's only so
much you can compensate for - garbage in, garbage out.
Try to ignore the technical quality and focus on the rocks themselves.
Camping
I've
converted my small car to a kind of camper. I've taken out the right
front seat and the backseat, and replaced them with a wooden floor from
the dashboard to the rear bumper. That gives me a bed of 2.05 meters
long, 50 centimeters wide. The car is completely furnished with a
reading light, nighttable, blinds, pillows and stuffed animal. The tarp
is used only for cooking in the rain: Mostly my camp just looks like a
parked car. I do have a tent, but I like the solid enclosure of a car.
It will stand any storm and even falling branches, I never have
annoying rocks beneath my sleepingbag and my camp will not flood, like
a tent can.
Camping outside campgrounds is prohibited, but not strictly enforced,
at least not in low season. I like finding a deserted spot to secretly
spend the night, far away from the usual hassle and noise of a camping.
The deserted spots are commonly used as waste dumps. I find there's an
irony in preferring human waste to the humans themselves...